Pigmentation and Dark Marks
Pigmentation is excess melanin in the skin. The three types we see most often are post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (marks left after spots or injury), melasma (symmetrical patches driven by hormones and UV), and sun-induced spots.
Each responds differently, and melasma in particular is a chronic condition that is managed rather than cured. Getting the type right is the first step.
Sun protection is the treatment, not an add-on
Every form of pigmentation is worsened by UV and, for melasma, visible light too. No active ingredient will out-perform daily use of a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. Tinted mineral sunscreens containing iron oxides add protection against visible light and are worth considering for melasma.
Ingredients with supporting evidence
Azelaic acid reduces melanin production and inflammation and is well studied for post-inflammatory marks. Topical tranexamic acid has growing evidence for melasma. Vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids all help by slowing pigment transfer and speeding cell turnover.
Hydroquinone remains the most effective single lightening agent but is prescription only in the UK and is used in short supervised courses, often combined with a retinoid and a mild steroid.
Realistic timelines
Post-inflammatory marks fade over three to six months with consistent treatment and sun protection. Melasma needs ongoing maintenance and tends to return if sunscreen lapses. If a pigmented patch is changing shape, colour or bleeding, see a GP promptly rather than treating it at home.
Read more
Ingredient guides relevant to hyperpigmentation:
Common questions
- Can laser remove pigmentation?
- Some pigmentation responds to laser or IPL, but melasma can worsen with heat-based treatments. We assess the type first and do not recommend laser for melasma as a starting point.
- Will exfoliating acids fade dark marks faster?
- Gentle chemical exfoliation with lactic or glycolic acid can help, but over-exfoliating causes inflammation that creates more pigment. Two or three times a week is usually enough.
- Does pigmentation come back?
- Post-inflammatory marks usually resolve fully once the trigger stops. Melasma is prone to relapse, especially in summer or with hormonal changes, so year-round SPF is essential.
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This page is educational and does not replace an individual assessment. If your skin is painful, rapidly changing, or affecting your wellbeing, speak to a pharmacist or GP.